HOW TO: GO GREY GRACEFULLY
“The process of graying hair is largely influenced by genetic factors and varies among different ethnic groups.”
Typically, white people begin to go grey in their mid-30s, while people of Asian descent often experience graying starting in their late 30s. Black people, on average, begin to notice their hair turning grey in their mid-40s. These differences stem from varying levels of melanin production and how each ethnic group’s hair ages over time. Melanin (the pigment responsible for hair and skin color) is produced by melanocytes (specialized cells found in hair follicles). As melanocytes diminish with age, the balance of melanin pigments fade, causing the loss of color. This lack of melanin production is what causes the appearance of gray hair. Also, the reduction in melanocytes is irreversible, meaning once hair turns grey, it cannot naturally regain its color.
It’s important to understand one thing: We have no control over what age we grey, or how it manifests itself. The rate at which someones hair will gray differs from person to person. For many years, it was widely believed that factors like stress could accelerate the process of graying. This is not true. While stress has been show to contribute to some health concerns, there is no scientific evidence to support that it directly speeds up hair graying. A 2020 study from Harvard Medical School revealed that stress can cause hair loss through different mechanisms involving the body’s fight-or-flight response, but it does not necessarily impact the production of melanin or the speed at which melanocytes age.
Another common myth is that plucking a grey hair will cause two or more to grow in its place. This, too, is false. Plucking a grey hair only removes that individual strand, and while another grey hair may eventually grow in the same follicle, it will not multiply. The number of hair follicles and the rate of graying are already genetically predetermined and unaffected by hair plucking.
So, now that we’ve debunked common household myths…
It’s time to talk.
Do you have a harsh line-of-demarcation from your previous color services?
Are you ready to fully embrace your silver fox era?
If you're ready to transition from dyed hair to your natural silver locks, today, we’re going to demystify and simplify the process of Going Grey Gracefully.
THE SHORT & SWeET ANSWER:
You’ll need to grow out your natural grey 6-8 weeks (minimally).
A professional stylist will assess your hair’s health.
The color process will begin by stripping your previously colored ends.
The professional will hand pick pieces to highlight/lowlight that coordinate with your natural roots.
The use of a gloss, or toner will be needed to remove any yellow hues.
A Deeper DIVE
Many women experience a "line of demarcation," a noticeable contrast between the previously colored hair and the new grey growth. To ease the transition, some opt for techniques like grey blending, or they go 100% committal and opt for a total transformation
The first step in transitioning to your natural grey hair is by allowing your roots to grow out for at least 6-8 weeks. This period is essential for revealing your unique “grey pattern”—the natural distribution of your grey and non-grey hair. During this time, you’ll begin to see how your hair will look without color treatments, allowing both you and your stylist to understand how best to approach the color correction process. While it may feel daunting to go without a touch-up for several weeks, this step is critical for ensuring a smooth and successful transition to your new silver hue.
Before any color treatment begins, it’s important for the professional to assess the overall health of your hair. The process of stripping artificial color from your hair and lightening it to mimic your natural grey can be taxing on your hair's structure. If your hair is already damaged, it may require strengthening treatments before moving forward. Deep-conditioning treatments, protein masks, and other reparative treatments may be recommended several weeks or even months prior to your color appointment to ensure your hair can withstand the transformation. This proactive approach helps maintain hair integrity and prevent breakage or excessive dryness during the color process.
Once your natural grey pattern has been established and your hair is deemed healthy enough for treatment, the color process can begin. To create a solid foundation for your grey transition, your stylist will first strip the previously colored ends. This removes any artificial pigment and lightens the hair to a neutral base, allowing for a more accurate recreation of your natural grey pattern. Stripping the color is a crucial step, as it ensures there’s no leftover color that could interfere with achieving a cohesive and polished final look. It also allows the stylist to work with a clean canvas to better match your natural root color.
One of the most artful aspects of transitioning to grey hair is mimicking your natural “salt and pepper” pattern. Your stylist will carefully examine your natural roots to assess the proportion of grey to non-grey hair. Depending on your individual pattern, they will strategically apply highlights and lowlights to blend the transition between your colored ends and new growth. This customized approach ensures that the lighter (salt) and darker (pepper) tones in your hair seamlessly blend, resulting in a natural-looking finish. By hand-picking pieces to highlight or darken, your stylist can create a beautifully balanced, multi-dimensional look that mimics your natural grey.
After the highlights and lowlights are applied, your hair may require additional toning to achieve the perfect shade of silver. Hair that has been lightened—whether naturally through melanin loss or chemically through color removal—can sometimes take on unwanted yellow or brassy hues. This is especially common in grey or white hair. A toner or gloss will be used to neutralize these yellow tones, giving your hair a clean, bright appearance. By applying a cool-toned gloss, a professional can make your hair appear more white or silver, enhancing the overall effect of your natural grey pattern.
It goes without saying that this can be a long process. Be prepared to sit for multiple hours, or even multiple sessions, if you’ve been dying your hair for years.
“Maintaining healthy grey hair involves special care to avoid yellowing or dullness. This can be achieved by using purple shampoos, which neutralize unwanted yellow tones, and hydrating products to combat dryness”
While there are many misconceptions surrounding the onset of grey hair, it's clear that genetics play the dominant role in when and how we go grey. It's important to remember that everyone experiences this process differently, and there is no "right" time to begin greying.
Once you've come to terms with your natural grey, embracing it can be a positive and empowering experience. Whether you choose to conceal your silver strands or opt to embrace them, the choice is entirely yours. What matters most is that you feel confident and comfortable in your skin—or, in this case, your hair.
Keywords: graying hair, melanocytes, hair pigmentation, going grey, ethnic differences in graying, stress and grey hair, plucking grey hair myth, line of demarcation, embracing grey hair, silver fox era, grey hair care